Two Weeks In Amalfi

I have a small family of just three of us and when we travel we love to immerse ourselves in the local culture. As temporary locals we dine in the restaurants, go to the supermarket, experience the local transportation and talk with a lot of locals. After spending two weeks in Amalfi I decided to share everything I learned about this beautiful town on the Italian coast. This is all based on my experience, in July 2023 during the height of tourist season and hot temperatures, and should be taken as an opinion. This is written primarily for an American audience but can apply to a broad international audience too. This is written in a Question and Answer style and grouped together by themes. 

Eating and Drinking in Amalfi - Common Questions

Is tip included or tax included in the price of food and drinks?

In Amalfi and throughout Italy the tax is always included in the price and there is no tipping. In other words, you will pay the price you see.


Why is there an extra charge on my bill called "coperto"?

In Italy broadly, if you sit down for service at a restaurant you will be charged a "coperto" or cover charge for each guest at the table. In Amalfi this ranges from 1.5 - 3 euro and legally should be printed on the menu somewhere.


I don't think I was charged correctly for my meal, is that possible? 

Unfortunately, In Amalfi it was a regular and persistent problem to have an inaccurate bill at a restaurant or pastry shop. You have to look at them closely to see if there are any "extras" which shouldn't be there. This can often be difficult if the items are all in Italian, which is common, or where they use a generic name and manually add the amounts, which is not uncommon. If you don't want to pay more than you have to in Amalfi it's best to take a moment to look at the bill closely for any errors. 


Do I need to make a reservation in Amalfi?

In the busy season restaurants and cafes in Amalfi can fill up quickly, both for lunch and dinner, but especially dinner. The more popular restaurants can prove difficult to get into without a long wait. The recommendation is to make a reservation, which can often be easier said than done. Most do not have an online reservation system and they tend to prefer a message through Whatsapp. Calling is an ok option as well but on numerous occasions for us it seemed when we arrived they had no record of the reservation. We found it best to go there in person and make the reservation, however even in this case in a few instances they did not have a table for us. Outside is especially popular so my best advice is to get there when dinner starts, or just before, and you'll have the best chance at a table.


Where should we eat in Amalfi?

There is no shortage of restaurants, cafes, gelaterias (gelato shop) and pasticceria (pastry shop) in Amalfi. The trick is choosing a good one because during tourist season there are so many people they don't have to be great. If you want the optimal experience you should do your homework on various rating sites such as google reviews, yelp, and tripadvisor. There are some good options along the water and the main street but we found the best options were usually just off the main strip. There are a few small squares and places tucked into walkways off the main road which had the best restaurants. Having said that, some of our favorite pastry and gelato shops are right across from the water in Piazza Duomo. 


Is it common for food and drink prices to not be listed?

If a restaurant, cafe or pastry shop does not display their prices to the public it's highly advised you ask before ordering. Typically these locations are charging more and hoping to catch unsuspecting tourists. After a few occasions of this happening to us, we became wise and always checked in advance. If there is no price, do not be surprised when they hand you the order and tell you a higher price than you’d expect. 

 

Are the prices different to sit down versus take away?

From coffee to sandwiches to pastries and gelato, expect to pay more for table service than for take away. Table service prices are typically more, sometimes as much as double, because you have a space to sit and someone to wait on you (no tipping so you pay more for the service). You typically can also sit as long as you want and are not rushed from your table.


How long does it take to have dinner in Amalfi?

When you sit down to eat in Amalfi there is no expectation for you to hurry through your meal so the restaurant can 'turn the tables'. Life in Italy is a little slower and sitting down to eat is a social and cultural experience, not just a function to fuel the body. There's a reason they have numerous courses and you’ll often need to tell them when you’re ready for the next one. So take a seat, relax, and enjoy a nice long meal over great conversation. 


Why didn't they bring enough plates?

We traveled with 3 people in Amalfi and for whatever reason we were always short of something; a plate, cutlery, missing salt or pepper. It seems there is no real standard and you get what you get and just need to ask for what's missing. For example most places will automatically bring Olive Oil, salt & pepper to the table, which is part of the Coperto, but sometimes one of those is missing and Balsamic Vinegar is very hit or miss. It's ok to ask for whatever you are missing. 


Can you drink the tap water in Amalfi?

While I'm not an expert on the water purity of Amalfi I can attest there is a spring fed river running below the city, where most of the water is sourced from and treated, and it appears the tap water is pure and drinkable. We drank the tap water in Amalfi with no ill effects as we did all throughout the country. There are thousands of public water taps across the country and a great way to stay hydrated without buying water every time. To learn more check out https://www.groundwatergovernance.org/is-tap-water-drinkable-in-amalfi/


What kind of Italian food is there in Amalfi?

As Amalfi is a coastal town you will find a lot of seafood on the menu. You will usually see just one or two non seafood based pastas and secondis, or main dish, and a good variety of pizza choices. The pizza was particularly good in Amalfi. Also, considering the importance of the Amalfi Lemon, you'll find a lemon pasta or lemon risotto in most restaurants. 


Where can I get a large cup of coffee while in Amalfi?

Well, I don't think there's anywhere you can get a large cup of coffee, usually referred to as a filtered coffee or drip coffee in most parts of the world, and just "coffee" in the US. In Amalfi all coffee is espresso based, as you'll find nearly everywhere in Italy. Your best bet is to order an Americano which is a shot of espresso with extra hot water and just enjoy the deep rich flavor. If you need your big cup of coffee use a Bialetti and make your own! To learn more about different Italian coffee styles check this out https://theromanguy.com/italy-travel-blog/italy/italian-coffee-drinks/


Is water free in Amalfi?

When you're at most restaurants in Amalfi you can order tap water at no cost. However you're normally offered Acqau Minerale, or Mineral Water, either sparkling ("gas" or "frizzante") or still, and it will cost 1.5 to 3 EUR depending on the restaurant. 


Are there free refills in Amalfi?

Soft drinks, pop or soda either come in a bottle or can, around 330ml or 11 oz, and will cost around 3 euro. As the drinks aren't the fountain soda kind, you pay for each one. Coke products dominate, usually just Coke, Coke Zero, Fanta, and maybe Sprite. You likely won't find Diet Coke or any other soda flavors. 


Is there local wine in Amalfi?

One of the joys of Italy is the abundance of great wine and local varieties. While all of the restaurants have a lot of choice, you can't go wrong with the house red or house white. This is almost always local and the most affordable. In some restaurants a glass is only 3 euro and usually only as high as 5 or 6 euro. Many restaurants will offer a 1/4 liter and 1/2 liter option as well which is the best value and great for sharing. 


Can I have ice for my drink?

In Amalfi your water and drinks will generally come without ice. Most Americans love their ice water so they may find this an inconvenience. You can ask for a glass with ice, just don't be surprised if you receive just a couple of ice cubes. 


Is the bread free in Amalfi?

At most restaurants in Amalfi you will find that bread arrives automatically, usually after ordering. The bread is free and usually included in the Coperto so you won't pay extra unless they specifically offer bread for a fee (which is unusual). Don't get too excited though, table bread is not the best of Italian bread but usually a slightly dry white bread. 


Do restaurants cater for food allergies?

Across Italy and at virtually every restaurant in Amalfi you will find a lot of allergy friendly foods, including gluten free and dairy free options. In fact most restaurants publish a food allergy index and every dish references it so you can make a great choice. In Italy most food is made fresh, with whole and simple ingredients, and few preservatives, making it a great place for allergy constrained diets. 


What salad dressings do they offer at restaurants?

In Amalfi, as is the case throughout Italy, the standard salad dressing is extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, provided in bottles for you to add yourself. In fact many restaurants will only provide olive oil by default and you'll need to ask for balsamic. Forget the Ranch dressing and enjoy an Italian style salad. 


Is the Limoncello good in Amalfi?

The Sorrento Peninsula, where you find the Amalfi Coast, is the birthplace of Limoncello. There is no better place to find local authentic Limoncello than in Amalfi. There is an abundance of options in nearly every shop in Amalfi and all restaurants, cafes and bars have Limoncello on the menu. Prices are fairly consistent so you don’t have to shop around too much to get the best price. 


Do restaurants in Amalfi offer a kids menu?

It is rare in Amalfi to find a kids menu in restaurants. Kids normally order from the same menu as adults. Most restaurants will make a simple red sauce or butter sauce pasta if you ask for it, which is a nice option if there is nothing they like on the menu. Of course nearly every restaurant has pizza so there’s always an option for your kids.


How do I read the menu in Italy?

Each menu you see in an Amalfi restaurant is divided by courses and is usually the same for lunch and dinner. While you don't need to order something for each course, the general rule is to order two courses or share courses with others at your table. We were never made to feel guilty about our ordering choices. As a quick guide, 'Antipasti' is essentially a starter or appetizer, 'Primi' is the first course and typically where you will find pasta, and 'Secondi' is the main dish. Pizza, 'Contori' or side dishes, and 'Dolci' dessert are usually listed separately. Most Primi and Secondi dishes do not come with sides unless specifically stated. To learn more: https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/food-and-wine/dining-in-italy-italian-menu




Getting Around Amalfi and the Amalfi Coast - Common Questions

Is it easy to get around Amalfi?

Getting around Amalfi can be challenging for many people due to the amount of stairs or steep inclines. Amalfi and neighboring towns, such as Positano, are on the water at the bottom of a mountain. While there is a relatively short flat beachfront walk, most of Amalfi has elevation. If you are staying in Amalfi it's almost a guarantee you'll be doing a lot of steps & stairs. If you're planning to go to Positano, Ravello or other towns nearby they nearly all have the same situation. If you don't have the right shoes or struggle with stairs, it's going to be a challenge. 


Is Amalfi hot in the summer?

The peak tourist months of July and August can be quite hot in Amalfi. Average highs are around 30 celsius or 87 fahrenheit with a lot of intense sun and humidity. It's a wonderful part of being in Amalfi and makes the water enjoyable, but it can also be difficult to escape as many places you'll go do not have air conditioning. 


Is it easy to take a ferry or bus from Amalfi?

Public transport in and out of Amalfi is very easy and highly recommended. Traveling by rental car can be challenging and both rentals and private cars, or taxis, are expensive. Public transportation is relatively affordable, especially buses, and has broad coverage. There are ticket booths at the ferry wharf where you can buy tickets for same day rides (we were unable to buy tickets for future dates). At these same booths there is a general information booth which can advise you on buses as well. For tickets you need to go to the Tabbacci shop to purchase. For the buses you buy a ticket covering a zone and you self scan when you enter the bus. Just tell the clerk at the Tabacci your destination and they'll give you the right ticket. 


What should I see in Amalfi?

The easiest and most common thing to do in Amalfi is to walk up the main street, through Piazza Duomo, and up to the top of the street where the shops seem to end. There are dozens of shops and restaurants along the way. There's nothing wrong with this if you are short on time, but the best of Amalfi is just a few steps away in the back alleys, further up the road, walking along the water, or taking that staircase up for amazing views. Not only are the sites more beautiful the further off the beaten path you go, but there are few tourists and you find wonderful gems such as great local cafes, restaurants, or bakeries, or museums and historical relics. 


Should I rent a car in Amalfi?

There are different views on this one with most suggestions telling you to avoid driving on the Amalfi coast. Reality is getting around along the Amalfi coast is not that hard if you're comfortable with narrow streets, lots of curves, and elevation changes. While driving, the biggest challenge are the buses as they have the right away and if you don't anticipate them they will force you to reverse to create space where only one vehicle can fit. Assuming you are comfortable driving, the next hurdle is parking, which is extremely limited in Amalfi and surrounding towns. If your accommodation does not include parking, make sure to search for public parking options before you go this route. Spaces are limited and expensive (30-60 euro/day). 


Where can I buy bus tickets?

All Tabacchi shops and most newsstands sell bus tickets. In Amalfi there is one directly across from the bus stop and on the corner of Amalfi Drive (the road front along the Sea) and PIazza Duomo (the main street running up Amalfi). 


What is the easiest way to get to Amalfi?

As Amalfi does not have a local airport, and has few roads to it, it can be tricky getting there. The most popular options are to take a train to Salerno or Sorrento and from there a Bus or Ferry. There is also a Ferry option direct from Naples if you go via Capri and switch Ferries. What we found, however, is if there are several of you traveling together it's easiest and cost effective to take a car service from Naples airport. It's going to take 1 1/2 hours and cost between 150 - 200 euro, which is a good option considering how much time you're likely to spend in Amalfi itself. 


Do the buses and ferries run on time in Amalfi?

It's rare for public transportation to be exactly on time in Amalfi. After all this is not Japan or Germany, this is Italy where there's usually no rush. Ferries were closest to being on time but usually a few minutes late, while buses just seemed to run on their own time table. 


How do I get my bags to where I'm staying?

As there is essentially just one road in Amalfi with most accommodation options are up footpaths and many stairs, getting your luggage to your place can be a real challenge. Every day we saw people struggling to move bags up and down stairs. The good news is there are Amalfi Porters, based down by the buses, who charge about 15 euro per suitcase and will take them all the way to your room. To learn more: https://amalfiporters.it/


What is the difference between Amalfi and the Amalfi Coast?

In simple terms the Amalfi coast is a stretch of about 40km, made up of 13 towns, of which Amalfi is the largest and centrally located. To learn more check out these two websites 

https://www.thewanderlusteffect.com/understanding-the-amalfi-coast/ and https://travel.usnews.com/Amalfi_Coast_Italy/

Shopping in Amalfi - Common Questions

Where are the best deals in Amalfi?

In many cities you'll find the highest prices where there are the most tourists, but not necessarily in Amalfi. Perhaps because it is such a small place you can find deals or optimal prices right in the heart of Amalfi by the water or in Piazza Duomo but you can also find good prices further afield. Equally you can pay higher than average prices just about anywhere. In other words, if you want the best price in Amalfi you should shop around and compare prices before making the purchase. 


Can I pay with a credit card in Italy?

Not only are credit cards accepted in Italy, they seem to be preferred, regardless of the amount, and they love ‘tap to pay’. Also you generally receive the best exchange range on credit cards, so it's a win win for everyone. 


Are there any ATMs in Amalfi?

There are several ATMs in Amalfi, mostly around Piazza Duomo. While your bank may charge you a fee for using a foreign ATM you also need to watch out in case the ATM provider also charges a fee. There is an ATM near the top of the street which does not charge a fee, provided by Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena.

Culture and General Info on Amalfi - Common Questions

Why do people not form proper lines?

In our experience in Amalfi, and typically around Italy, there are loose rules regarding waiting in lines. Whether it be a bus stop, ferry terminal, gelateria, or supermarket it was common for people to push in ahead of us. If you're not paying attention or ‘too nice’ you will likely find people cutting the line in front of you. 


Why aren't people warm and friendly?

I joked while in Italy that smiles are not free! While we find the Italians to be a warm people, in Amalfi it can feel like they aren't happy to have your business. In Amalfi shops, restaurants and public services they don't greet you with a smile and you can often feel as if you're a nuisance to them, even though you're willing to spend your money for their services. I can only imagine this is worse during the summer months and because there are so many tourists they don't have to be friendly. It was rare to be greeted with a smile the first time we were patrons, but an odd thing happens when you return...you are often treated like an old friend. It was amazing how often they remembered us when we made a 2nd, or 3rd or 4th return to the same establishment. If you are friendly on your first visit they will often be friendly when you come back. Whether you are going back or not it's a great time to practice the golden rule, 'Do unto others as you'd have them do unto you'!


Is it just me or are they grumpy with everyone?

During peak season the workers in Amalfi are overwhelmed with tourists and they are used to one time customers. It's always good to be kind to people and if you take the extra moment to flash a warm smile, tell someone how much you enjoyed your experience, or that you expect to return and it's amazing to watch them react. When we visited the same place more than once they almost always remembered us on the return, were much warmer, and often gave us some favorability of getting a table or having a better outcome. We even had numerous occasions where we were given complimentary food or drinks. 


Is it legal for cars and mopeds to drive up the main street?

In Amalfi there is only one primary road, it's quite narrow, and happens to be shared by pedestrians and motorists. There is a traffic signal at both the bottom and top of the road to coordinate the vehicles so you will find they will come in bunches from one direction at a time. At certain points on the road, in the heart of the shopping area, there is barely enough room for a car to squeeze through, yet alone people. You need to pay a lot of attention while strolling the street and get out of the way when vehicles come. Sometimes they are moving fast and it would be easy to be clipped by a mirror or a more serious part of the vehicle. 


Is the air conditioning good in Amalfi?

Air conditioning is not a guarantee in Italy or Amalfi, despite it getting quite hot in the summer. Most restaurants are either outdoors or open to the outdoors and air conditioning is not very effective. If you're staying in a bed & breakfast or house share you will want to check in advance if your room has air conditioning. 


What is Amalfi famous for?

Amalfi has several 'claims to fame' including amazing views, beautiful seaside beach clubs, and lemons! Amalfi lemons are a specific variety which are large and sweet and can be eaten whole, skin and all. In fact the style of growing lemons in Amalfi is unique as they grow vine-like across a trellis on terraces up the mountainside. You will find a lemon theme throughout Amalfi including clothing, accessories, food and drink.


What is the cord hanging in the shower in Italy?

All bathrooms in Italy are required to have an emergency pull cord in case you had an accident and need help. In theory pulling the cord triggers an alert to the hotel staff or emergency response. I guess you could pull it and find out if it's true!


What is the center of Amalfi?

Piazza Duomo is the hub of Amalfi, named after Duomo di Amalfi, and really the central point of all the action. It's a wonderful place to people watch, eat gelato on the stairs, grab a pastry or have dinner. Do yourself a favor and don't just admire the Duomo from the outside but go inside and be amazed at the beauty behind the facade. 


Is there good WiFi in Amalfi?

We found the WiFi to be very adequate in Amalfi. In private homes they tend to use DSL services which are shared, so download speeds can vary depending throughout the day. One surprise is that most restaurants and cafes with sit down dining do provide free internet for customers. 


Why is there no toilet cover on the toilet?

In Amalfi it is very common for there to be no toilet seat cover. I don't know why but presume this makes it easier to clean. Unfortunately it's not uncommon to be missing toilet paper, hand soap or towels as well. If you don't want to find yourself in a jam, best to travel with a small packet of tissues and hand sanitizer just in case. Oh, and don't even think about those fancy toilet seat covers!

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Is there a public bathroom in Amalfi?

As is typical in Europe most businesses in Amalfi do not like you to do your business at their establishment unless you are a paying customer. The good news is that Amalfi has a free public toilet but the bad news is that it's a long way up the main road past all of the shops. Having said that, we found there were quite a few restaurants who would let you use their toilet if you asked OR where their bathroom was in an area you could get to without going past the front desk!


Are there mosquitoes in Amalfi?

There are a lot of mosquitos in Amalfi due to the abundance of water, warmth, and humidity. They tend to be the small ankle biter types and we found them everywhere. As much of the dining is outdoors it's recommended to have some insect repellant handy while in Amalfi. 


Do people know English in Amalfi?

You will find people in Amalfi have a fairly good understanding of English but are not as strong at speaking it. It was not uncommon for people to have limited spoken English but enough to get by with. I've found people in the larger Italian cities of Rome, Venice and Florence tend to have much better English. Having said that, you can easily get by with speaking English. Just speak slowly, do a lot of pointing, and don't expect them to understand everything. It also helps if you learn some of the basic Italian greetings


Are the beaches in Amalfi clean?

While the water in Amalfi is gorgeous, the local beach is usually jam packed with people and boats, which can leave the water quite murky. If you want clearer water you can duck around the corner east of Amalfi to Altrani, or just west of the Marina in Amalfi or better yet catch a quick Ferry over to Minori or Maiori. 


Where can I mail a postcard in Amalfi?

While you can buy a postcard in nearly every shop in Amalfi, good luck with finding postcard stamps! Most shops will tell you the Tabacchi sells them but we tried all three in Amalfi and they all told us to go to the postal service. There is a postal office across from the beach clubs, called Poste Italiane, which does sell postcard stamps but English can be a real challenge and they seemed annoyed by the request. Also, it cost more for the stamps than the actual postcard, but in my opinion it was still worth it. 


When is the best time of year to go to Amalfi?

Amalfi locals will tell you that May and September are the best times of year to visit Amalfi. These months are generally the best weather while avoiding the peak tourist season of July & August, when it gets extremely busy. However if you want to go during the warmest time of year and fully enjoy the Mediterranean, you may prefer July and August. 


What currency is used in Italy?

Italy is part of the European Union and uses the Euro as currency.